top of page

Collars and cuffs, how and what to choose for shirts and suits in mens sartorial fashion

When it comes to men's sartorial fashion, the details are what make all the difference. One of the most important details to consider when choosing a shirt or suit for any occasion is the collar and cuffs. These two elements not only add to the overall aesthetic of the outfit, but they also play a functional role in terms of comfort and practicality.

Firstly, let's talk about collars. There are a variety of collar styles to choose from, each with its own unique look and purpose. The most common collar styles include the classic point collar, the spread or cut away collar, and the button-down collar. The point collar is a timeless choice that works well with most face shapes and tie knots. The spread / cutaway collar, on the other hand, has a wider opening between the collar points, making it a great option for men with longer necks or those who prefer a more modern look. The button-down collar, as the name suggests, has buttons to keep the collar points in place and is a more casual and relaxed choice.

When selecting a collar style, it's important to consider the occasion and the necktie you'll be wearing. A cutaway collar looks best with a larger knot, such as the full Windsor, while a point collar can accommodate a variety of knot sizes. Additionally, the shape of your face can also play a role in which collar style looks best on you. For example, men with round faces may want to avoid a spread collar as it can make their face appear wider, while men with longer faces may want to steer clear of a point collar as it can elongate their face even more.

Moving on to cuffs, there are also various styles to choose from. The most common are barrel cuffs, French cuffs, and convertible cuffs. Barrel cuffs are the standard option for most dress shirts and have a button closure. French cuffs, also known as double cuffs, have a fold and require cufflinks for closure, giving a more formal and sophisticated look. The convertible cuff, as the name suggests, can be worn either with buttons or cufflinks, making it a versatile and practical choice.

When choosing a cuff style, consider the formality of the event and the overall look you're trying to achieve. French cuffs are a must for black tie events, while barrel cuffs work well for more casual occasions. It's also important to note that French cuffs require a bit more attention to detail, as the length of the sleeve and the cufflink choice can make a big difference in the overall appearance. Another cuff I like personally is the cocktail cuff (made famous in the James Bond films), A Midformal/casual cuff.

In addition to style, it's important to consider the fit of the collar and cuffs. The collar should sit comfortably around the neck without being too tight or loose. It should also be able to accommodate a finger between the collar and the neck. As for cuffs, they should fit snugly around the wrist without being too tight or too loose. This will not only ensure comfort but also prevent the cuffs from sliding up or down the arm. If shirts are Made to Measure, you can specify a wider cuff spacing to allow for a chunkier watch.

In conclusion, collars and cuffs are essential elements in men's sartorial fashion. The style and fit of these details can make or break an outfit, so it's important to choose wisely. Consider the occasion, your face shape, tie choice, and overall desired look when selecting a collar and cuff style. And remember, a well-fitted collar and cuff will not only enhance your appearance but also make you feel confident and put-together.

When it comes to jackets and overcoats, the collar shape of the suit or sport jacket is an important aspect to consider too, when choosing the right style for your look. There are several different collar shapes to choose from, each with its own unique characteristics and suitability for different types of suits. Let's start with the most common collar shape, the notch collar. This collar has a triangular notch cut out at the lapel, creating a distinctive 'V' shape. It is a versatile choice that works well for both single and double-breasted suits. The notch collar is a classic choice that is appropriate for any occasion, from formal events to business meetings.

Moving on to the peak lapel, this collar shape has a pointed end that extends upwards towards the shoulder. It is a more formal option and is typically seen in double-breasted suits. The peak lapel adds a touch of sophistication and elegance to a suit, making it a popular choice for special occasions or black-tie events. It is also a great choice for those with a broader frame as it helps to create the illusion of a slimmer silhouette.

Another collar shape commonly found on double-breasted suits is the shawl collar. This is a rounded, continuous lapel that has no notch or peak. It is a more unconventional choice and is often seen on tuxedos or evening wear. The shawl collar gives off a more relaxed and informal vibe, making it a popular choice for weddings or formal dinners.

Moving on to the sport jacket, there are a few collar shapes that are commonly seen. The most popular is the notched lapel, which is similar to the notch collar on a suit. This collar shape is a versatile choice that works well for both casual and formal occasions. It adds a touch of sophistication to a sports jacket and can be dressed up or down depending on the occasion.

For a more casual and relaxed look, the club collar is a great choice. This collar has rounded edges and is often seen on more casual sports jackets. It adds a touch of character and uniqueness to a jacket, making it a great choice for those looking to stand out from the crowd.

In conclusion, the collar shape of a suit or sport jacket can greatly impact the overall look and feel of an outfit. Whether you're going for a classic and formal look or a more casual and laid-back vibe, there is a collar shape that will suit your style and occasion perfectly. So the next time you're shopping for a suit or sports jacket, pay attention to the collar shape and choose one that complements your personal style and body type.


bottom of page